Beaches and Creeks
Warnings
From 7/2019 smoking is not allowed on the beaches (but you may on your own boat, or in a kiosk that is authorised).
Monouse plastic plates, glasses, straws etc. that are not biodegradable or compostable are also prohibited in the minor islands (Budelli, Spargi, Santa Maria, Razzoli, etc.)
We do not know how strictly these rules will be enforced.
Beaches in Sardinia are generally clean but very poorly equipped.
You will have a hard time finding a loo.
Therefore, you may want to rely on the few beaches with kiosks (which generally have very poorly maintained restrooms).
The wind
Maddalena Archipelago is a particularly windy place albeit more sheltered than the north-west Sardinia coast.
The most common wind is the Mistral, a strong north westerly from France blowing in the 25-35 kn range.
Strong winds and gentle breezes generally alternate every 2-3 days.
Typical wind configuration in North Sardinia: the Mistral backs from north west to east in the Strait of Bonifacio
Plan your activities
To get the best out of your vacation it is important that you are aware of the weather forecasts and you plan your daily trips and activities according.
Have a plan of what you want to see and where you want to go. Split your list in what you will do on calm days (trip by rib? a beach not accessible with Mistral blowing?) and on windy days (sheltered beaches? other activities?)
Then decide the evening before or the morning according to the latest forecasts.
Make sure that the beach you select is not exposed to winds from the sea.
In strong westerlies (Mistral) you can use a sun umbrella only be at Villaggio Piras beach, Spalmatore and Spiaggia Del Relitto.
Avoid the west side of la Maddalena in strong westerlies, you will have the wind blowing in your face and agitated seas.
Other beaches that seem protected from westerlies (Testa di Polpo, Cala Garibaldi, Spiaggia due Mari) do not have a hill high enough to shield them from the wind but the sea will be calm.
By cliking on the beach name you will redirected to TripAdvisor
La Maddalena
Cala Grande (Big Creek). Villaggio Piras main beach.
Very quiet and small, in fact it is not even on the maps. You can get there on foot in 8 mins or by car. Parking and swing for children.
It is reasonably protected from Mistral.
Not a favourite, but it is best to check it out at the beginning of your vacation so you are aware of what is available within a short walk.
Spalmatore. It is the nearest outside the village, in fact it could be reached by walk (not recommended.)
Usually crowded as in La Maddalena Island it is the most sheltered from the wind. Small kiosk, lifeguard and beach service. Parking on the street.
Cala Lunga (Long Creek). A very small beach in a deep creek after passing Spalmatore, close to Porto Massimo.
Monti d' Arena (or da Rena). Generally exposed to westward winds. The rocks and the dunes have been beautifully shaped by the wind but the sand is not. Parking on the street.
Lo Stangolato, Il Cardellino. In the "Stagno Torto" (the gulf where Monti d'Arena beach sits) there are a few small beaches, some more or less visible from the road. I do not have much insight about them. To get to the Stangolato you need to drive through a dirt road.
Bassa Trinita (or Baia Trinita). The most beautiful beach in La Maddalena. Very exposed to westward winds. Worth a visit if conditions permit. There is also a kiosk and lifeguard. It is quite crowded unfortunately. Amazing sea colours.
Cala Francese (French Creek). An ex cave with crystal waters surrounded by granite rocks, often seen in postcards. It is great to admire it from the road above in distance, but you will find it hard to find a place where to put your sun umbrella or to get into the water as there are only rocks. However, you may enjoy the walking paths around here, especially around sunset.
Testa di Polpo (Octopus Head) in Giardinelli Island. Generally quiet, it is small and you will have to take a dirt road with rocks and holes (pay attention to your tyres). Postcard pictures of this beach are generally fantastic but every time I have been I found algae deposits. Also here you can explore Giardinelli (a peninsula, not an island) walking for 10-20 mins, but beware of the sun, there is nowhere to cover.
Nido d'Aquila (Punta Tegge). On the south side of the island, reachable driving past the port, or through the north side after passing Cala Francese. There are some kiosks and services here. Never been personally.
Cala Grande, Villaggio Piras
Spalmatore
Bassa Trinina / Baia Trinita
Caprera
Cala Garibaldi. The Club Med facing the beach has been closed for a decade and it is now run down. It is definitely a large beach and not crowded but unfortunately a bit squalid.
Cala Serena (Serene Creek). An amazing creek, close to Cala Garibaldi. Secluded, beautiful and not crowded. It is closed to boats and only reachable by a footpath.
The footpath is not long but I am not sure how good it is as I went years ago. Wear decent sandals for the footpath.
Spiaggia due Mari (Cala Portese). Large beach with kiosk and beach services. The beach is not be very crowded but the road to get there is and it is difficult to find parking. Sometimes the road is closed by local police as the road is completely jammed. Best to visit in the afternoon after 2pm when some tourists have left.
Spiaggia del Relitto (Wreck beach). This is deservedly the best and most famous beach in Caprera, easily accessible. To reach it you will pass past Spiaggia due Mari, where the road is narrow and may be jammed. It is extremely busy, as for the previous one best to go in the afternoon once many tourists have already left. It is not very easy to find – you need to turn left on an almost unmarked road with a rock saying “Cala Andreani”. There is a parking just close to the beach, if you do not get stuck on the way there.
Kiosk and beach services. Access by boat is not allowed.
Cala Andreani. Close to Spiaggia del Relitto. Never been there, perhaps it is a bit less crowded. Drive past the rock with “Cala Andreani” and park, then look for a footpath on the left. Access by boat is not allowed.
Cala Coticcio. The best and most famous creek in Caprera, can be reached by boat. The land path is tricky - many years ago I got lost and had to climb rocks. The trekking path has been improved but is officially accessible only with a paid guide. Cala Coticcio has one of the darkest blues in the Archipelago. The water is colder than elsewhere as it is deeper and less protected from the open sea than any other creeks. It is also one of the most crowded, it may be tricky to throw the sea anchor. Before getting there by boat on your own assess carefully the sea and wind conditions, especially when you need to get back. On the North, you are exposed to the Strait of Bonifacio. On the south light winds may get stronger between Sardinia and Caprera. Avoid the North passage against the wind unless the breeze is minimal and the sea is very calm. The south passage is longer, maybe uncomfortable but much safer in strong winds.
Cala Brigantina. Between Cala Coticcio and Cala Portese. Reachable by a path from the fort on the top of the hill or by boat, not crowded. Waters with a strong green colour.
Cala Caprarese. A small creek visible from the terrace (easier by binocular), on the right of Cala Napoletana. It is not crowded at all - you may just see 3 boats over there. You can reach is by boat or through a path. It is very shallow (around 1.0m) and a bit muddy.
Cala Napoletana (Neapolitan Creek). Can be reached by boat or through a path. It is the creek clearly visible from the villa's terrance on the left. It is lovely.
The following ones can be reached only by boat
Road to Spiagga del Relitto and Cala Andreani
Road to Spiagga del Relitto and Cala Andreani
Cala Caprarese
Spargi
Cala Corsara (Pirates Creek). One of my favourites, incredible colours. It is often ranked among the best beaches in Italy. Do not miss it if you rent a boat. When you anchor pay attention to the visible underwater rocks rising from 5m depth.
Cala Soraya, Cala Conneri, Cala Granara. They are very small and close to each other, so without a GPS you cannot be sure on which one you are. They are beautiful. Unfortunately they are not protected from motorboat waves so you cannot find calm waters.
Cala d'Alga, Cala Ferrigno. Not worth your time in my opinion.
Cala Corsara
Budelli, Razzoli, Santa Maria
Check out the National Park map the areas where you are allow to visit
Porto della Madonna / Le piscine (Swimming pool). Shallow sea between the 3 islands. Best place to anchor a rib is close to the Spiaggia del Cavaliere, otherwise you can try close to the Passo degli Asinelli (Donkey Pass), or close to the Santa Maria shore. A must see during your stay. Avoid the shore close to Budelli as it is where tourists brought by daily tours disembark and embark, you may be bothered and potentially you will have to move.
Spiaggia del Cavaliere (Beach of the Knight). Very impressive.
Spiaggia Rosa (The Pink Beach). It is off limits but there is a path for tourists to walk on.
Cala Santa Maria. Very impressive beach/creek, try not to miss it if you rent a boat. It is not as advertised as other beaches but no less charming.
Cala Lunga (Long Creek). Reachable only by boat. Not worth it.
Le piscine
